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NEW Driftmotion Super-Single Clutch Kit for 1JZ, 2JZ or 7M with an R154, AR5, or V160 transmission. We found that the typical stock style clutch kits are not quite bulletproof enough for some of our customers that drift or race at the track, and Stage 4/Extreme pressure plates have a little more pedal pressure then most people want for a daily driver. This Super Single clutch is in a more affordable price range than a twin disc, without sacrificing durability or quality. We can even upgrade it to a twin disc later on with new discs and friction for about $699! (if severely worn the cost could be higher) With E85 and all the new billet turbochargers, the new goal for most people is often 600-750whp. With that in mind we had this clutch custom made for us, it has pedal pressure like a normal HD clutch, and power handling higher than a Stage 4. This clutch is rated at 750whp. Of course we only use the best US made parts. The ceramic-metallic dampened disc is easy to drive with minimal chatter. The hydraulic release bearing kit gives you a smooth precise feel. We include a hose to go directly from your master cylinder to the new slave. Compare the price of our kit to anyone else, it's a great deal!
Includes flywheel (steel), and pressure plate (aluminum), clutch disc (ceramic-metallic), hydraulic release bearing kit, Driftmotion flywheel bolts, full length clutch hose, pilot bearing, alignment tool.
Install tips:
*Pressure Plate Bolts are 20ft/lbs.
*Flywheel Bolts are 75ft/lbs with Red Loctite.
*Use only DOT 3/4 brake fluid! Do NOT use any brake fluid with silicone in it, it will ruin the seals in the bearing.
(We like the Prestone DOT 3 Synthetic fluid you can buy at most auto parts stores for under $10 in a yellow bottle)
*Completely flush out the master cylinder before connecting the new hose and slave, or replace it with a new one. You don't want old dirty fluid to get pumped into your new release bearing.
*Our release bearing works great with normal 5/8" stock bore master cylinders, or a 0.700" Wilwood master can also be used.
* The supplied bracket goes at the top right bolt for the transmission's front bearing retainer at about the 2 o-clock position. (looking from the front), the slot in the bracket keeps the pin on the back of the release bearing housing from rotating.
* The highest fitting on the installed bearing housing (12 o-clock) should be the bleeder hose. We recommend to sleeve the braided lines with 1/4" silicone hose with a slit cut in it, and zip tie the hoses to each other, then zip tie them to the bell housing coming out the original hole for the stock slave cylinder.
* To measure the bearing clearance first put a straight edge across the bell housing on the engine and measure from the back of the bell housing to the released bearing spring where it will touch the release bearing. Then put the bell housing on the transmission and measure from the front of the bell housing to the face of the release bearing. Subtract one measurement from the other to find your clearance.
* The gap between the bearing and the clutch spring fingers should be about 0.165" +/- .015", this measurement is BEFORE bleeding the clutch, with the bearing pushed all the way in. The shims go on the tube of the black round spacer behind the aluminum bearing housing. Do NOT pull the front of the bearing apart and put shims inside where the fluid seal and o-ring is, that will ruin this unit! After bleeding the clutch you will not see a gap anymore, that is normal.
*You MUST adjust your clutch pedal freeplay after installing the clutch and bleeding it. It should engage the clutch in about the middle of the pedal travel where it feels comfortable to drive. *The clutch should NOT engage high up in the pedal travel, and it should not engage just barely off the floor.
*You will hear some noise from the floater and discs when the pedal is depressed, this is normal for a twin disc clutch.
*If you aren't sure about anything relating to installation or bleeding, PLEASE CALL US. We are here to help! 909-949-0459 10AM-5PM MON-FRI
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